(The following entry is from my paper diary, hence the quotation marks. Comments may follow at the end. These are written after the completion of the trip.)
Day 11: Monday, July 26, 2010. Hakodate to Aomori Moyakogen YH on Rte. 103
"I packed up this morning at 9:00. Woke up at 4:30 'on schedule' but went back to sleep as I planned to take the bicycle to the Tanaka Bicycle Shop near the guest house per the information of the owner.
Stopped at a Seicomart first for natto, bread, coffee milk and yoghurt.
When I got to the bike shop the master was out and wouldn't be back till noon. I then decided to find the Sekine shop which info at Hakodate JR Station had told me about yesterday. He was sitting in the shop talking with a young, chubby man dressed in biking clothes. I received a cheery greeting from him when he saw the bicycle. It's a bit like having a baby - you are instantly considered an 'insider'. Mr. Sekine - who was mostly toothless - made some adjustments with an Allen wrench to the front and rear brakes. No charge. I rolled down the street on my way to Hakodate Station to get info about the Seikan Ferry to Aomori City then turned around thinking to return to the bike shop to ask to take Mr. Sekine's photo. But, another man on a bicycle, long hair, full white beard and wearing a NY Yankees cap approached me. He said he was 'Ainu...Indian'. He then gave me some leaves he called 'Ainu tobacco'. He tried to tell me about a place near Tomakomai - his home town? Anyway, the combination of getting the bike fixed so easily and speaking to the Ainu 'Santa' cheered me up greatly. Now for breakfast!
11:30. Arrived at ferry port and bought ticket to Aomori-shi for the 2 pm sailing: man and bicycle were 2,750 yen (the bike 1,000 yen). That should get me to Aomori about 5:30, not enough time to bike up to the hot spring (28 km away), but... I'm anxious to leave Hokkaido.
I boarded the ferry before the motor vehicles and my bicycle was secured by a crew member. I spent the first 90 minutes dozing in the non-smoking 'tatami' area, then awoke and spent the rest of the crossing looking at the approaching city of Aomori.
I got the bicycle off the ferry - last - at 6:30. Getting to Sukayu Onsen seemed entirely impractical, but I did hope to make the Moya-kogen YH. As night set in I was still on Rte. 103 going uphill, walking some of the way. Finally, I recognized some landmarks from the Google Map such as the city college, then a hospital and finally a shrine on the left. Following that I spotted the hostel sign and entered at a little before 8. I was the only guest, but the Takatsukis were very accommodating. Mrs. had me leave the bicycle in the enclosed outer entrance. I checked in and showered, then ate my dinner - natto, bread and coffee milk - in the 'Common Room' which, with its bookshelves, photos and maps had a very friendly, welcoming air. When I finished the Takatsukis came in and we chatted in Japanese. I asked for a Guiness which was advertised for 450 yen, not unreasonable under the circumstances and Mr. demonstrated his Guiness 'surger' which uses sonics to put a head on Guiness. It was very smooth and easy to drink. I asked him to take a picture and I took one of him and his wife.
He said he had been to Ireland 4 times which explained the many Irish souvenirs in the place. Somehow I expected him to know more English - or use it - but no. The room had a wooden floor on which I laid out the futon."
A more detailed time line:
9:05 am., left Hakodate Youth Hostel
11:30 am., arrrived at ferry
2:00 pm., ferry departure for Aomori City
6:30, left ferry in Aomori City
c. 7:45, arrived at Aomori Moya-kogen YH on Rte. 103
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