(The following entry is from my paper diary, hence the quotation marks. Comments may follow at the end. These are written after the completion of the trip.)
Day 3. Sunday, July 18, 2010. Lake Saroma to Lake Akan. Distance: 122 kms.
"I left the hostel early. I woke up to the sound of light rain, but it stopped by the time I had loaded the bike. 4:20 departure. I tried to follow the roads to connect to the Kitami road. A bit twisting - with one very steep downgrade, but I found the road. However, I thought it was wise to don all my rain gear at that point. Rain stopped by the time I was on the Tanno-Biforo road. Took a rest and a picture in front of a road stand with a full array of drink machines. Somehow, it gives me a feeling of strength though bicycling is nothing grand. Stopped to remove rain gear east of Biforo and caught sight of the mountains near Akan. The day was sunny and getting warm but a good one for a ride.
Traveling inland and imperceptibly rising in elevation. It wasn't until a michi-no-eki did I enter the approach to the pass "protecting" Akan. I tried to stay mounted, but decided it better to walk and not exhaust myself. Took a picture in front of the sign marking the pass summit: Senpoku Pass. From there I headed down to Akan. I know there was supposed to be a hostel on the Obihiro road. I paused when I reached the junction. Down hill to Akan-ko as planned or uphill again to the hostel? The plan won and I coasted almost all the way down to Akan, keeping in mind the trip I have to make going back up!
I decided to use as much of the remaining light to take a few pictures down by the lake. First, however, I asked at a koban (police box) about a camp ground. It wasn't far. I checked in at the office. The manager was friendly and "surprised" by my being able to write my home address in kanji. He also lent me an oversized ground pad saying it would rain and I'd need it. (I did!) I pitched my tent for the first time in almost 18 years and cursed myself for not practicing it at home, but the instructions were still in the bag so I got it up. Sure enough, it was raining lightly at pre-dawn.
Almost forgot about the sento (public bath) they directed me to. Run by an old woman who seemed delighted that I had ridden from Saroma-ko by bicycle. She discounted the bathing fee by 100 yen! Took a picture from the outside and walked up the street where she had recommended a little Japanese-style restaurant. Again, I was determined to "explore" so I entered and asked the woman about the menu. I took pictures of my order for Selena.I biked back to camp in light rain and arranged things for the night. Bought a few things at Seicomart on the way.
Total distance: 122 km."
(October 2, 2010. The road from Bihoro to the Senpoku Pass turned out to be one of the nicest rides of the trip. The upgrade was barely noticeable and I had views of low mountains and fields of wheat under blue skies most of the way. That couldn't last, of course, and for most of the time I spent in the village of Lake Akan it drizzled. The next day, as it was once again drizzling, I abandoned my original plan to spend a rest day there and continued on towards Obihiro.)
A more detailed time line:
4:20 am., left Lake Saroma YH
7:50, photo near Tohoro River on Rte. 39 between Tanno and Bihoro
9:00, in Bihoro (9:30, left Bihoro)
10:50, Tsubetsu
11:40, Honki
2:45, Senpoku Pass
4:00, arrived Lake Akan
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