8:30 pm
Enlightenment did come as I climbed up through Daisenji!
I discovered I wasn't where I thought I was. The temples I was actually hoping to visit are east nearer to Kurayoshi.
Got up for b'fast at 7 then hiked around various unspectacular temple buildings for almost 90 minutes and finally shoved off at 8:30.
The road I chose for the descent in the direction of the central Chugoku town of Miyoshi must have been communicating with its fellows in Hyogo-ken for as soon as I headed downhill and rounded the first curve to the left, the chosen road started ascending. Shoganai. However, within 10 minutes I came to a fork: left to Miyoshi and half-way to Hiroshima or right and down an obviously descending road to Yogano and the coastal Route 9.
Wow! I flew down with an average speed of 35 kph and reached Yonago in no time. Second time I've changed my plans. But, it put me on a flat if rather heavily trafficked road. Legs like rubber. Easily tired. Thoughts of resignation. "And then it happened..." I stopped at a Poplar convenience store (seems to be a Tottori and Shimane chain) that had a nomihodai (all-you-can-drink) drink bar for ¥120! The paper cup given to me was getting a bit weak by the time I left.
"And then it happened..." again! I was approaching Matsue, which I had not considered the day's destination, but rather Izumo, when I passed a pro-bicycle shop open on a Sunday.
I stopped, asked and was answered in the affirmative that they had a French-type-valve tube for sale. Miracle of miracles! Had an assist from a young man who had moved to Matsue from Wakkanai just 6 months before. When "Fu-shiki-balbu" came out of his mouth and not mine the shop man understood immediately.
Then I noticed the scenery to my right: a river opening into a lake with wooded hills above. Next I spotted a highway information sign directing folks to Lafcadio Hearn's home. Having seen his grave near Ikebukuro, I decided to end the day in Matsue.Spurned one cheap hostel-type place, checked into a business hotel which turned out to be in a very interesting neighborhood (little restaurants and coffee shops like the one I'm in), visited Hearn's residence - told the woman on exiting that I'd love to live there with its beautiful little gardens, wooden porch and tatami rooms - and entered Matsue Castle.
I bought a ticket from the vending machine like everyone else, took a few photos of the castle keep then entered it. On handing over my ticket the woman told me in English that I had the wrong ticket because mine was for Japanese people.
I then proudly stated that I resided in Tokyo hoping to avoid an extra charge, but was told that foreigners received a 50% discount! She asked my country for statistical purposes, I suppose, and bid me enter. Seen the inside of one castle keep, seen them all but the helmet collection was interesting. I wonder if any of the enemy ever burst out laughing at some of the designs. Did samurai break the code of Bushido if they laughed before fighting?Touring finished I found a nice little Italian place near the hotel then rode over to the Saty (kind of a mall including a supermarket) for mikan jelly, ice cream and two cans of non-alcoholic beer.
Decision for tomorrow: try to cross the mts. for Hiroshima, or at least half way stopping at Miyoshi (80 kms) or continue down Route 9 along the coast to Hagi in Yamaguchi-ken effectively bypassing Hiroshima.
Other photos of Matsue:
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ReplyDeleteRobinets de Baignoire