Day 43. Friday, August 27, 2010. Hiroshima to Matsuyama, Ehime-ken.
Bad vibes from theft of my bike saddle, stem and pump left behind.
Ferry leaving Kure Port. Two freighters, a few SDF naval vessels in port. Mountains coming down to the sea. Water transport probably has been the best way to travel in these parts for a thousand years. Heading for very narrow strait separating Kurahashi I. and mainland opening onto Seto Inland Sea.
Just entering Seto Inland Sea. Thinking of trading in my bicycle for a 5-m sailboat. Impressive view of islands and sea.
Nearing 6:00 pm now. Accomplishments (in reverse chronological order): popped another eda-mame in my mouth and took a sip of "Madonna" Dogo brand beer across from the Dogo-onsen (the sign in front is right, just after a bath is an excellent time for a beer), took a bath in the same onsen, checked in at the bright yellow YH on the hill 5 minutes from the onsen, got my saddle and stem fixed for good (and he wouldn't accept any money) at Umesawa's bicycle shop
(Yes, that's right. The adapter put in in Hiroshima didn't quite work so the saddle became loose after bicycling from the ferry port to town!), arrived in that area of Matsuyama called Dogo-onsen, biked about 10 kms from the port beginning with a Grade 1 tunnel (That's the way to greet a bicyclist! I thought I'd like this place from the very start.).(After pause for a few more eda-mame and a few draws on the beer mug...) Again I overcame my initial reluctance to enter an establishment where I'd have to speak Japanese.
Living in Tokyo it's too easy not to study and go through the long period necessary to actually start using it. I am SO FAR from speaking the language with any facility and much entertainment value for the listener, but I see the virtue of making the effort now. Now, dinner. Saw an okonomiyaki restaurant on the map just down the street. Hmm...Still later... No okonomiyaki. Tried a place listed on the Dogo-onsen map given to me at the YH. Japanese restaurant. Nice place. Seated me next to a young woman. After 5 minutes of silence I turned and said hello following that old adage that Americans hated silence. No response.
The food was... well, Japanese which means there were many dishes and a great variety. It tasted okay, but I kept thinking of pasta. Japanese food isn't exactly filling. Good beer. I got up to leave and the woman said good-bye.
Went back and bought a souvenir for the family and new travel clothes for myself. Walked around. Took photos of Japanese people taking photos.
Tomorrow I'll leave for the ferry for Kyushu, but which one? The port east of Oita or the one in Beppu? That beer sure did taste good after the dip. I've read that the YH in Beppu is within walking range of 20 onsen...
A more detailed timeline:
8:20 a.m.: left Hiroshima Youth Hostel
8:38 a.m.: passed Hiroshima Castle
9:05 a.m.: stopped at Family Mart 1 km from ferry port
9:25 a.m.: arrived at Hiroshimako Ujina ferry port
11:15 a.m.: ferry left Hiroshimako Ujina
12:09 p.m.: ferry arrived at Kure port
1:54 p.m.: ferry arrived at Matsuyama Kankominato ferry port
2:19 p.m.: stopped at Mosburger on Rte 19 about 4 km from port, near Mitsuhama Sta.
3:28 p.m.: arrived at Dogo-onsen streetcar terminus
4:10 p.m.: left "Umezawa" bicycle shop in Dogo-onsen after repairs
4:27 p.m.: returned to Matsuyama YH and checked in
6:31 p.m.: finished post-bath beer at "Brewery Restaurant" opposite Dogo-onsen Bath
8:14 p.m.: dinner at "Nikitatsu" in Dogo-onsen
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