(The following entry is from my paper diary, hence the quotation marks. Comments may follow at the end. These are written after the completion of the trip.)
Day 6: Wednesday, July 21, 2010. Furano to Sapporo.
"Left hotel at 4:32 and cycled to the McDonald's which was on the road out of town. Unfortunately, the breakfast menu didn't start until 6 am so I ate nothing.
The weather was cloudy but not cold. The road was easy and offered some good scenery. Took a number of pictures. My first way mark was Ashibetsu, then Takikawa. The later was a big disappointment as the only McDonald's was off the main road. Accordingly, I pushed on and bought breakfast at a Seicomart (Lawson's doesn't sell natto!): a 3-pack of natto, 1 tomato and choco-bread. This I ate in a tiny crossroads place where the road was lined with trees and the ground with yellow marigolds.
Let me comment here that many of the roads I've followed so far lack shade from trees. Why would that be? A small settler population who didn't want to expend resources and energy planting trees?
The afternoon came on and the road paralleling a JR line and the Ishikari River started to feel endless. At times, I used a sidewalk which was passable at times and later I had to use the road itself which had almost no verge. Lots of truck traffic though. I had to be alert.
I finally reached a point about 30 km from Sapporo. Lots of traffic. Had to follow the verge. Reached a by-pass road to the town of Ishikari and Otaru so decided to use it. It would allow me to enter Sapporo from the north, passing Hokkaido University. Again, riding west I faced a headwind yet felt energetic enough to keep up a good pace, averaging over 22 km / hour. When I reach the place where I would leave the by-pass and head south into the city I was at first relieved. However, given the heavy traffic and narrow verge, I stayed on a sidewalk next to a wide stream and line of poplars. I was waiting for signs reading 'North 24' etc., which I knew would give me a clear fix on the distance left to go.
Google lead me the final way to the hostel and the 'moment of truth': would there be space?
No problem. In fact, it seemed rather underused. I had tried it once back in 1980 or so, but had actually forgotten the interior. Rather uninviting. A common room doubled as a dining room. I shared my bunkroom with one guy who was there asleep when I arrived at 10:15.
I asked about the Sapporo Beer Garden as I knew from the past that I could get an all-you-can-eat yaki-niku there. I got the bus. I asked a woman in line if it was indeed the correct bus as the header said nothing about the garden. She replied 'Chikaku tomarimasu' which I interpreted as negative till I realized she meant 'It stops nearby'. Perfect. A very short ride: just 2 stops. The grounds seemed quite different - and pleasingly developed - than I remembered. I entered, was taken within, transferred to a 'sitter' then to an order taker. I took the plunge and ordered the all-you-can-eat-and-drink yaki niku. I figured I hadn't been eating much for several days so I needed to gain the strength back. Quite enjoyed it though I ate alone. Turned on my ipod function and listened to different music while cooking and eating. Had 3 plates of meat (with some bean sprouts and cabbage and onion) plus 4 mugs of Sapporo draft. Got my money's worth.
Got off the return bus at Odori Park near the clock tower and walked back.
How central Sapporo has changed. I wonder how wise it is to return to an old place only to find most things gone?
Total distance: 155 km
Also called Kudo-san's son to meet tomorrow per Akemi's request."
A more detailed time line:
4:30 am., left hotel in Furano
6:30, photos in Ashibetsu at Rte. 38 (Ashibetsu By-pass) and Rte. 452
9:30, in Takikawa
10:10, in Tsukigata
c. 6:00 pm., arrived at Sapporo YH (near Sapporo Station)
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