Day 46 (August 30): Beppu(別府市） to Aso (阿蘇市）or "Beer: Drink for international understanding!"

Day 46. Monday, August 30, 2010. Beppu to Aso, Kumamoto-ken.

Beppu's a nice place. The chief onsen area, Kannawa, where I stayed for two nights, is on the side of a mountain flanked on the north and south by extensions of the same mountain. This position offers great views Beppu Bay. However, the same geography presents a dilemma for a cyclist: either head downhill towards Oita to Route 57 and thence to Aso or take Route 11 south. I chose the latter hoping that 11 would continue along the same elevation contour and somehow work it's way to Aso. The reality was an uphill climb, or rather push, of 11 kms.
Afterward I coasted downhill into Yufuin, stopped at a Joyful for b'fast and drink bar then continued west on Route 216 and 210. I had changed my original plan and decided to approach Aso from the north rather than the east. I thought I might avoid one of the passes that way. Along 210 I rode with the sky ahead of me getting darker. At 1 o'clock I stopped at a Lawson for a drink and waited out the rain that had just begun.
The rain didn't last long so I headed west again to the junction of Route 387 at Kokonoe.
Stayed on it until Oguni where I made a rest stop at a michi-no-eki. That one has my vote for the poorest design. Unlike all others this one had no extensive overhang to offer protection from rain or sun. There I picked up Route 212 which leads to Aso. It was on 212 that I discovered the third pass of the day.
The approach grade seemed to go on forever. Finally I reached the top and was treated to a grand view of the surrounding area.

It was a fast trip down and ride to Aso station. It was after 6:00 so I thought I would find tourist information and check on hotels. However, they didn't look plentiful near the rather small station.
(Written September 3) I was lucky. Just as she was about to close up the information center for the day I asked the girl about accommodations. Seeing the bicycle and my riding get-up she pointed up the same street and said there was a place called Backpackers Base. I hopped on the bike and was there in a flash. Entering, I noticed immediately that the place must have been almost brand new. Also heard old Bob Dylan playing on the sound system. Interesting. Got a bunk in a dorm room for ¥2,800, bought a discount ticket from the manager and then walked to the onsen nearby. Many of the guests seemed to follow the same tip so that is where I met a young man named Johannes from Munich. Had a nice chat. Nudity tends to reduce barriers of all sorts. When I got back to the hostel I invited Johannes to go to a kaitenzushi place with me. He was traveling with his girlfriend, Amelie, also German, with whom I, unfortunately, was not able to enjoy the aforesaid lowering of barriers onsens offer. I paid for the beer given the current weakness of the €, but it was also my pleasure to do so.
It seems that they are true Germans for they were happy to accept my offer. Johannes worked as a chef, hence his careful olfactory examination of an Asahi Super Dry and identification of a surprising ingredient, but returned to university. "A good time was had by all" as the old saying goes. Such chance meetings, facilitated by the carefully cultivated environment of the hostel - often due to the influence of the managers - make such institutions far superior to First Class hotels, at least for the solitary traveler like me.

Photos of Aso Base Backpackers Hostel: