Why 5:25? The "Sakura" is reversing her engines to back out of Yawatahama's ferry terminus. Farewell, Ehime-ken, I knew you but for one day.
Left Dogo-onsen at 7:35. Note that I don't say Matsuyama. I'm sure the city has much to offer, but Dogo is a very small area and I needed that scale y'day. Like staying in one quarter of Old Jerusalem or staying in the Plaka in Athens. Everyone loves a particular section of a town or city immediately and THAT is the place he recalls fondly forever after.
Rode out of town for about 12 kms and spotted a Gusto sign. I do get excited about things other than food, really. Alas, it was 8:25 and the restaurant wouldn't open until 9. Survival mode kicked in! Went next door to Mac's and ordered the cheapest thing and consulted the map for the day's ride to Yawatahama's ferry port. Yes, I was the first person in Gusto, barely. Little kids sent ahead by parents are easy to block. Eat. Drink. Liquids. "My name is Scott and I'm a coffeeholic." On the road again at 9:40.
On this 44th day of the bicycle travel I looked at the mts to my left and thought "How beautiful, cloaked in green, set against a blue sky and billowing clouds". No. It was more like "Thank the immortal gods I don't have to cross them". One's perspective changes while riding. Let me add, however, that once dismounted, watered and rested, a sense of awe in the presence of nature does return.
The Grade 1 tunnel that welcomed me to Ehime y'day was replaced by Grade 3s today. If you haven't read my entry for the nearly continuous series of tunnels on the road to Kamikochi Iriguchi in Nagano-ken, a Grade 3 (my definition) has a walkway for pedestrians about as wide as the handlebars of my bicycle and is elevated above the road by about 15-20 cms. There were 3-4 relatively short tunnels of this grade, but the last one, on Route 197, was 2,100 m. That's a long walk through foul air and unending streams of traffic passing at 40 kph.
Arrived at Yawatahama ferry port just before 3 and bought a ticket for Beppu, "City of Spas" (my appellation as a tyco onsenist).
The YH there claims to be within walking distance of 20 onsens. No mention of beer, however.By the way, was it Clark Gable who skippered the American sub through the Bungo Strait in "Run Silent, Run Deep"? That's the course the "Sakura" is taking.
Let us reach Beppu, Clark!
11:30 pm: at the YH. The ferry arrived on time at 8:15 and I raced to the hostel. Arrived at 8:45. The manager answered both of my questions and, after sorting my bags out, I was sitting in an onsen bath - I did prefer standing under the "waterfall" bath - and then eating "Hide-san's Nabe" and drinking draft beer at a local spot. Thanks again, Clark. Exploring Beppu tomorrow.
June 1, 2011.
After finishing at the onsen I hurried along dark streets in the hills above the onsen area looking for the restaurant the youth hostel manager recommended. I finally found it perched on the slope next to the road, but most of the lights were off. However, the small curtain above the entrance was still in place which normally means that the business is still open. I went to the entrance yet hesitated then turned around and started walking back. I stopped. I thought that since I had come this far I may as well go in and ask if I can still get something to eat.
On entering, the proprietress met me and showed me to a table. There were only a few customers at one table. The restaurant overlooked Beppu. Streams of steam rising from the onsens were visible in the city lights. The woman explained that the youth hostel manager had called and told them to expect me! I ordered their special and a beer. Afterward we took a few pictures in front of the restaurant. Once more, they said I resembled Clint Eastwood. I've heard that one before. HE resembles ME perhaps!
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