Day 55. Wednesday, September 8, 2010. Kagoshima to Cape Sata.
(written at 4:45, September 9)
I thought it best to have something in my stomach before leaving Kagoshima so ate toast at the hotel. Made it to the port and boarded first as bicyclists are allowed to do. A crewman having secured my bike with rope and chocks, I went up to the passenger deck and, as I had learned to do on other ferries, sought out a seat near an outlet.
Landed at Tarumizu at 9:40 and set off at high speed along a reasonably flat road in places lined by palms. The picnic ended at Kanoya about 10 kms on with a few moderate hills. I was surprised, however, that I could take them without excessive effort.
I reached Minami-osumi, which I had originally planned to be my stopping place for the day, at 12:00. I estimated that I might be able to cover the remaining 35 kms to Cape Sata in 2.5 hours though the squiggly road ahead on the map indicated a grade. By this time I had decided to spend at least the last hours of my 60th birthday on the 9th with Akemi and Amy at home in Tokyo so I was determined to push on. I even entertained the idea of speeding back to Tarumizu and catching the ferry back to Kagoshima. The gods were listening, of course.
Progress was good so I took a pineapple and coffeemilk break at Daiichisata (NB: Rather, Sataizushiki). Just ahead I spotted a sign indicating that Cape Sata was just 22 kms further. At that point the road rose consistently upwards. Of course. How was I to know that an offering of pineapple and coffeemilk was expected?
I rode. I pushed. I looked up and caught glimpses of road I hoped I wouldn't actually see. I did, but "what goes up..." (even in Japan). I soon reached the turnoff for Cape Sata. The road I turned onto was once a toll road as evidenced by an abandoned booth. Forward and soon upward I went dodging fallen palm fronds. Up and down, around curves catching sight of the coastline below. Finally sensing I must be near, I prepared myself to see... a tollbooth! No, I thought, not the legendary tollbooth that once denied access to the cape by bicyclists! It was supposed to have been closed several years ago. I approached behind a family-filled van and heard the words "go-hyaku en". Argh! What could I do but... pay the ¥500 so sweetly requested. Newly encouraged I launched myself upwards.
Finally, with a fine view of the coast far below, I rolled into a parking area. There, dead ahead, was a narrow tunnel and what I took for a toll collector. Could I not ride or at least walk my bicycle the rest of the way to the cape? Resignedly, I bought a Coke - only the second one of the trip - sat down and considered what to do.
Facing the reality of the situation I took out the ¥150 I saw written on the sign at the tunnel entrance and advanced. Not needed! Passed through without payment, but without bicycle. Exiting the tunnel I saw the reason for the prohibition as the concrete path descended steeply wide enough for just two abreast.
Up and down. Arrive at small shrine. Skip that one this time. Up towards the lighthouse/observation platform. Great views of the immediate coast and also two islands to the south, one with a prominent mountain. Past an abandoned two-story rest house, up 20 roughly lain stone steps and there I was. A small clearing and the sign that made the end of my journey "official" (never mind having to get back to Kagoshima and Tokyo!).A lovely view. Open ocean stretching who knows how far.
Stayed a while then returned to the bike and started back at 4:00. Now it was a race to get back at least as far as Minami-osumi where there was a hostel. Ride. Push. More pushing than riding it seemed, but when I made a short tunnel I knew it was literally downhill most of the way to Daiichisata and more pineapple. No fixation with that fruit in case you're wondering. Juicy. Nothing like it on a day when you can wring sweat from your shirt.
Onward. Catching views of Mt. Kaimon on the opposite shore, a magnificent volcano now clear of clouds and about to be silhouetted by a sun quickly sinking in the western sky. Stopped several time to photograph it despite the growing threat of being benighted on the road.
I was forgiven as I arrived back in Minami-osumi at 6:30 and then rewarded by being directed by the gods to an onsen hotel within walking distance of the YH. A room so huge it might have held 3 or 4 of the business hotel rooms I have stayed in. Only the "love hotel" outside Hiroshima way back when was comparable, at least in size. For dinner in the hotel restaurant "chyampon udon" and a Kirin draft. I doubt I'll enjoy that Kyushu dish soon.
Bathed and fed I faced only the two-hour ride back to the ferry at Tarumizu. There will be plenty of time for reflection.
A more detailed time line:
8:29 a.m.: stopped at Lawson shop near ferry port in Kagoshima
9:40 a.m.: ferry arrives in Tarumizu
10:23 a.m.: photo at Arahira Shrine on Rte. 68, 15 km so. of Tarumizu
11:17 a.m.: stopped at Lawson in Nishikimachi Shinkawa 3.5 km no. of Kinko
11:53 a.m.: stopped at Lawson in Minami-ohsumi on Rte 269, 37 km so. of Tarumizu
1:09 p.m.: stopped at A-Coop shop in Sataizushiki near junction of Rte. 269 & 68
1:30 p.m.: photo leaving Sataizushiki, 22 km from Cape Sata
3:05 p.m.: arrived at Cape Sata parking lot and pedestrian tunnel
3:29 p.m.: photo on arrival at Cape Sata marker
5:17 p.m.: stopped at A-Coop shop in Sataizushiki again
6:02 p.m.: photo of Mt. Kaimon from Rte. 269, 6 km so. of Minami-ohsumi
6:30 p.m.: arrival at Nejime Onsen Neppi Hotel in Minami-ohsumi
September 9, 2010: A confession: I'm on the Shinkansen just about to arrive at Nagoya listening to a catchy little tune I have often hummed while riding hard and especially pushing the loaded bicycle up steep grades in pouring rain. "Die Fahne Hoch" a.k.a. the "Horst Wessel Song". Hitler made it the Nazi Party anthem rivaling "Deutschland Uber Alles".It only proves that things are often put to uses never imagined by the creator. Rollover, Adolf.
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