Sunrise Over Amanohashidate

Sunrise Over Amanohashidate

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Day 40 (August 24): Gotsu (江津市) to Hiroshima (広島市西区三丁目) or "Monkeys, but no Monkeyshines"

NB: For a complete map of this trip go to my map at http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF&msa=0&msid=212604391466540829641.00049962cafa13bd403f5



Day 40. Tuesday, August 24, 2010. Gotsu, Shimane-ken to Hiroshima.

Thought I'd try the 25 kms before b'fast again. Found out it only works with towns of sufficient population. Hamada doesn't have it and had nothing open at 8:00. So confirmed two young koban ("police box") cops in front of the JR station. Asked about Route 186 over the mts to Hiroshima and was told that it begins with a 3-km upgrade, but was a very wide road. I'll make do with narrow but flat. Bought and ate b'fast at a Poplar: two microwavable "wraps" (extremely thin burritos), one large pack of natto, 3 bananas and a liter of coffee milk. Up the grade I pushed the bike, sweating and staring at the white lane edge marker. Found a vending machine under a tree and drank 500 mls of Soukenbicha (a kind of tea blend). Nothing like it. When a sidewalk appeared and seemed to continue for a distance I put on the earphones and listened to piano classics. By this time the traffic had become a trickle. Push, push, push. Up another 5 kms. Finally reached the pass which, as usual, marked the prefectural boundary. Ski resort there. Ate lunch at 2:00. Can I still make Hiroshima before dark?
Rode across a plateau then started the descent. Careful to control speed. Kept it between 30-35 kph.
Short tunnels, long bridges. Almost no traffic. Came out of one tunnel and stopped. Two monkeys with babies on their back were in the parking area. They hid from view, but several more appeared. Left an offering of bread.
Down and down until the road came to a broad riverbed which it followed for about 20 kms. Had the slightest downgrade but this gave me hope of reaching Hiroshima so I really pumped the legs averaging 27 kph.
Then... Well, it was bound to happen: an upgrade of several kilometers which deposited me not on the Hiroshima river delta, but in a valley west of the city. Got my GPS position, knew I was near enough to the city to eventually make it in even after dark, so I stopped and ate at a Mosburger which must have been the local teen hangout. Satisfied my craving for a milkshake.
Finished eating and set out in a southerly direction confident that I'd find a hotel. Didn't, but reached Route 2 By-Pass by staying on a broad but weedy sidewalk at which point the sidewalk abruptly ended and a limited access highway began. I was forced onto a dark, hilly road parallel to Route 2. Unhappy and noticing the hour was after 8:30, I spotted a sign ending in "Hotel". Without hesitation I wheeled in and wondered about the absence of a front desk and the presence of photos of rooms each with a button either lit or not. It was, of course, a variation of "Love Hotel". Enough said. Any port in a storm. Promised myself on that dark valley road I'd stop at the first place I came to. Etc., etc., etc.
I had an interesting chat with the manager who ran me through the drill. He seemed quite dedicated to his job.
Actually, I found the place depressing. Didn't sleep well at all.

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