Day 41. Wednesday, August 25, 2010. In Hiroshima.
Had Hiroshima not been attacked with an atomic bomb 65 years ago, I rather doubt many tourists would stop here. It seems to me like a smaller version of Osaka: of much industrial and commercial importance, but lacking in natural or man-made beauty. If you have lived here or visited more than a few days and disagree with my admittedly quickly formed opinion, please do so.
The Genbaku Dome as the iconic ruin of 1945 Hiroshima is called is, as you might expect, in the center of the city with major streets roughly radiating outward (Sorry, but the A-Bomb did put Hiroshima on and even briefly took the city off the map so references to the cataclysm come easily.) so I naturally was guided there arriving at 8:25 (The A-Bomb vaporized the center at 8:15.). I decided to find the YH and check in first. Finding it was an easy task and I was soon pushing the bicycle up - where else?! - the last 150 m.
Visit to the Peace Museum next. Was there in '78. The background and event were presented in a rather neutral manner, but there was a very strong implication that Japan was always the intended target. Not what I've read, but the cult of victimhood has had 65 years to mature in this country.
Just before leaving I looked at some photos of dignitaries, Japanese and foreign who had visited and one name was, for me, conspicuous by its absence: Emperor Showa known outside Japan as Hirohito. Perhaps there's a good explanation. Procrastinating for one week in August, 1945 cost 100,000 people their lives.
Next... I took a streetcar to the ferry port to collect information about sailings to Matsuyama on Shikoku. Tired I headed back to the YH then had dinner at Coco's not far away. Bless their drink bar. I floated gently back to the hostel on a cool current of iced coffee.
May 29, 2011.
After returning from the trip I did a little research and discovered that Emperor Showa, the posthumous name of Hirohito, had in fact visited Hiroshima after the war. Probably twice. However, I still find the absence of any references to these trips among the list of visiting dignitaries odd.
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