(The following entry is from my paper diary, hence the quotation marks. Comments may follow at the end. These are written after the completion of the trip.)
Day 17: Sunday, August 1, 2010. Matsugasaki to Tsuruoka YH
"Got up at 4. Ate oatmeal and finished the raisins. Packed and checked out at 5:30. Had to ride on sidewalk which didn't make for good time. Ran into two Japanese guys on bicycles heading north - with the wind. Yuichi and Masa. It's funny how there is an instant bond formed when distance cyclists meet. Saw another foreigner biking north and waved to his big smile!
Stopped at two michi-no-eki. Had tamago-don at the first (?). Pretty good for 500 yen including a little soup, a little oden and takuwan. A wearying day fighting a head wind. When I got off Rte. 7 and took the road, Rte. 112, past Shonai Airport, I thought I needed a good rest. Seeing all those black pines lining the road with beds of pine needles on the ground I have a little thought to camping.
I forgot. As soon as I entered Sakata I found a ramen place and ordered 'mabo-dofu'. Good stuff.
Rte. 112 intersected Rte. 7 outside Yunohama which is a big beach resort given the number of minshikus and people I saw. Bought some potato chips and a Kirin Free and sat on the seawall. Saw a foreign woman on the beach playing with some Japanese kids. Rode through Kamo and paused at the aquarium to take a picture. Passed through the first short tunnel there. Followed Rte. 50 as it wound around different points. Always facing the strong wind. As I wasn't sure how far the hostel was, I was getting prepared to find an alternative including a rather spacious bus shelter.
Finally rode into Yura which has a large beach and an island just offshore connected by a bridge. As I stopped, a woman on a bicycle approached me and asked about my trip. In turn, I asked her about the distance to the hostel on Rte. 7. At that point I got out the GPS and located it. I was nearly there at 5:15! Rte. 50 climbed out of the town. I walked my bicycle up with considerable energy. It was downhill on Rte. 7. When I reached the convenience store I took another reading and was very close.
The YH is in a small woods. When I entered there were already a few people present then the manager arrived moments later. I was a little confused as he asked if I had a reservation (remember Furano!), but it was okay.
I joined a group of 5 who were driven by the manager back to the onsen in Yura. 300 yen.
He picked us up about 45 minutes later as he was preparing dinner. Basically vegetarian with brown rice. Quite nice.
Interesting design. Took lots of pictures of the interior. Rather tired now, but will call home.
Total distance: 110 km"
A more detailed time line:
5:30 a.m., left hotel
6:00, stopped at Lawson's convenience store in Yurihonjo on Rte. 7
11:10, arrived in Kisakatamachi near Kosagawa Station on Rte. 7
12:30 p.m., at Sunkus convenience store on Rte. 7 in Sugasato south of Fukura
2:45, lunch in Sakata
4:40, at beach in Kamo on Rte. 50 600 m west of Rte. 112
5:20, arrived at Yura on Rte. 50
about 6:00, arrived at Tsuruoka Youth Hostel
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